Tales of Kutaisi

Kutaisi might be Georgia’s third biggest city, but it is the country’s oldest. I felt it immediately when I arrived. There is a primal energy coming from the underground pulling you gently down into reality. It might be a cacophony of underground waters, or the ancient memories imprinted in some invisible field still floating in Kutaisi’s space; I really don’t know. Legend says that Kutaisi was the final destination of the legendary Argonauts. Maybe their spirits are still roaming around.

One interesting thing about Kutaisi are the punching machines absolutely everywhere. Are they also connected to the energy ship Argo left around here? I have seen more faces of Khabib and Connor for a few days walking through the city, then in the promotional campaign before their fight a few years back.

Unfortunately, I didn’t have any film left to take some decent photos of this place. Tskaltubo was Stalin’s favorite spa resort, he would come here to rest from all the tough decision-making. I heard imagining which group is after your head this month can be very tiresome. After his death and up until the collapse of the Soviet Union, Tskaltubo was a very popular place for the Soviet leadership and the working class alike. Just for reference, in the old glory days, it would attract 125,000 visitors a year, now it has only 700. There were even direct trains to Tskaltubo from Moscow.

Although 700 is such a weak number, I expected to find Tskaltubo completely abandoned. In fact, there are still a few hotels working, and the abandoned buildings have guards that seek bribes if you want to enter.

I’m not sure why, but I’m attracted to these remote hermitages. A photograph of the Katskhi Pillar was one of the first glimpses I got of Georgia on the internet. The structure is a simple limestone with a little monastery on top. Unfortunately, in the last few years, the place became increasingly popular, so they close the upper hermitage for visitors. Since 2015, only monks go up a few times a week to pray, always one by one. Before, a monk was living on the pillar permanently, but now when he is up, there is no sense of isolation because of all the noise visitors downstairs make.

The church is very old, probably from the 5th century or even older. It is associated with stylites, or pillar dwellers, ancient Christan ascetics that would ascend pillars to preach and fast. Often, these hermits would never come down, which means the public could see their bodies slowly wither away. Keep in mind that these pillars weren’t always isolated like Katskhi, some were manmade and in the middle of town squares. As with any form of sacrifice, these monks believed this austere practice would ensure the salvation of their souls.

Father Iliarion (you can read more about him in an excellent BBC article here) said that anyone can find inner peace and solace here. I’m citing the article:

“The world has many beautiful places but the main thing about this pillar is the serenity it offers,” he said. “Before the limestone pillar existed, this entire region was the sea. Somehow, I can still feel the calming presence of the sea in this place today, though it is miles away, making it the perfect spot to get closer to God.”

And I agree with Father Iliarion, I have also felt the calming presence of the sea around the Katskhi Pillar. When I was there, I simply thought it is the sacred energy of the holy place I’m feeling, but he is right, you can feel the gratitude holy men feel for the geography of the place, which directly gives revives its creator, the sea.